Japan: Okuno-in, A Revered Place Between Nature and Spirituality
Updated: Nov 30
Okuno-in, located in Koyasan, in the lush mountains of Wakayama Prefecture, is one of Japan's most sacred and revered sites. It serves as the largest cemetery in the country, nestled within a dense, ancient cedar forest that creates an atmosphere of profound tranquility and spirituality.
The cemetery is also housing the mausoleum of Kobo Daishi (Kukai), the founder of Shingon Buddhism, where, according to believers, he is said to have entered into eternal meditation. Over centuries, Okuno-in has evolved into a vast necropolis where devotees and prominent figures throughout history have sought to be laid to rest near their revered spiritual leader.
I remember visiting Koyasan for the first time, long before my first pilgrimage to the 88 temples of Shikoku. Although I had not yet acquired the basic knowledge to appreciate Shingon Buddhist culture, my memories remain unforgettable. And my subsequent visits over the years have only confirmed this interest.
There is something unique that permeates these spiritual places, creating an atmosphere that is both serene and profound. Nestled in a landscape of verdant hills, Koyasan stretches its history from temples to cemetery, marking our journey with majestic pagodas and centuries-old trees.
Undeniably, this sacred town is an important source of inspiration for photographers interested in Japanese Buddhist art and heritage.
However, I will not revisit the history, spirituality, and structure of Koyasan in this article. I’ve had the opportunity to discuss these important aspects in a dedicated article, which you can read here. There, you’ll also find my recommendations for the five sites of photographic interest. Of course, this is a personal list, and everyone can form their own impressions during their visit. But for now, let’s focus on the beautiful forest cemetery.
Actually, Okuno-in is not just a cemetery. It is a sprawling spiritual sanctuary that embodies the essence of Shingon Buddhist beliefs about life, death, and the path to enlightenment. The cemetery is a testament to the enduring faith and devotion of countless individuals who have sought to be close to Kobo Daishi, even in death.
To learn more about Shingon Buddhism and its founder Kukai (Kobo Daishi), you can read my dedicated article here.
Contents:
History and Periods
The history of Okuno-in is intricately linked to the life and teachings of Kobo Daishi. After his passing in 835, Kobo Daishi was entombed in a mausoleum at Okuno-in, which became a sacred site for pilgrims and devotees. Over the centuries, Okuno-in has grown and evolved, reflecting the changing political and cultural landscapes of Japan.
Here is an overview of what I consider the 4 main periods that led to significant changes in the structure of Koyasan and Okuno-in. These periods also directly contributed to gradually establishing it as Japan's ultimate place of worship.
Heian Period (794-1185)
During this era, Okuno-in began to take shape as a sacred site. The imperial court and noble families started constructing memorials and tombs near Kobo Daishi's mausoleum, seeking spiritual proximity to the revered monk. This period saw the establishment of many of the cemetery's earliest structures and memorials.
Kamakura Period (1185-1333)
With the rise of the samurai class, Okuno-in continued to expand. Military leaders and warriors sought to be buried near Kobo Daishi, believing that his spiritual influence would guide them in the afterlife. This period saw the construction of numerous memorials and tombs dedicated to prominent samurai and their families.
Muromachi Period (1336-1573)
During this turbulent era, Okuno-in faced challenges due to wars and political instability. However, it also saw the construction of new memorials and the restoration of existing structures. The cemetery continued to grow, reflecting the enduring devotion of pilgrims and patrons.
Edo Period (1603-1868)
The Edo period was a time of relative peace and stability in Japan. Under the patronage of the Tokugawa Shogunate, Okuno-in flourished. Many of the cemetery's most impressive memorials and structures date back to this period, reflecting the shogunate's support for Shingon Buddhism and Kobo Daishi's legacy.
Influential Figures
Among the thousands of graves that make up Okuno-in, many belong to famous figures. Whether they are politicians, shogun, samurai, business leaders, or artists, many of these figures have chosen Okuno-in as their final resting place.
Their significance in the country's history can be easily measured by the grandeur of their monuments. It would be impossible to provide an exhaustive list here, but here are a few names I would like to mention:
Kobo Daishi (Kukai) (774-835):
Obviously, as the founder of Shingon Buddhism and the central figure of Okuno-in, Kobo Daishi's teachings and legacy have shaped the cemetery's spiritual significance. His mausoleum serves as the heart of Okuno-in, drawing pilgrims and devotees from across Japan (see below).
Emperor Shirakawa (1053-1129):
Emperor Shirakawa was a devout follower of Kobo Daishi and provided significant support for the expansion and preservation of Okuno-in. His patronage helped establish the cemetery as a major pilgrimage site and spiritual center.
Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537-1598):
The influential daimyo (lord) and political unifier of Japan, Hideyoshi also was a devout follower of Kobo Daishi and provided financial support for the construction and restoration of memorials at Okuno-in. His contributions helped solidify the cemetery's role as a sacred site.
Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543-1616):
The founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, Ieyasu continued Hideyoshi's support for Okuno-in, ensuring its preservation and expansion during the Edo period. His patronage helped maintain the cemetery's spiritual and cultural significance.
Characteristics of Okuno-in
Okuno-in spans over 2 kilometers in length and is home to approximately 200.000 graves, memorials, and religious structures. The cemetery is nestled within a dense, ancient forest of towering cedar trees, some of which are over 1.000 years old. This natural setting creates a serene and otherworldly atmosphere, enhancing the spiritual experience of visitors.
The size and scale of Okuno-in are a testament to its enduring significance as a sacred site. The cemetery is divided into several sections, each with its unique characteristics and memorials. Below, is the list of what I consider to be the most significant ones for photography.
Structure and Layout
Okuno-in's structure is designed to reflect the spiritual journey of pilgrims and visitors. The cemetery is organized into a series of paths and sections, each leading deeper into the sacred site and closer to Kobo Daishi's mausoleum.
Ichinohashi Bridge
This bridge serves as the traditional entrance to Okuno-in. Crossing the bridge symbolizes the transition from the secular world to the sacred realm, preparing visitors for the spiritual journey ahead.
Gobyobashi Bridge
This bridge marks the halfway point of the pilgrimage route to the Kobo Daishi Mausoleum. It is a popular spot for visitors to pause, reflect, and offer prayers before continuing their journey. Behind this point, be aware that it is no longer possible to photograph.
Gokusho
The Gokusho is a purification hall where visitors can perform ritual cleansing before approaching Kobo Daishi's mausoleum. This hall is an essential stop on the pilgrimage route, allowing visitors to prepare themselves spiritually for the sacred encounter ahead.
Muenzuka Memorial
The Muenzuka (photo below) is a memorial dedicated to those who have no family or whose graves can no longer be maintained by anyone. The term "Muenzuka" translates to "Mound of Unknown Relations". This pyramidal structure serves as a collective resting place and a symbol of remembrance for individuals who might otherwise be forgotten.
It is a reminder of the compassion and inclusivity found in Buddhist teachings, ensuring that all souls, regardless of their circumstances, are honored and remembered.
Kobo Daishi Mausoleum
As you may have understood, The Kobo Daishi Mausoleum, also called "Gobyo", is the spiritual heart of Okuno-in. This sacred structure houses the remains of Kobo Daishi and is the ultimate destination for pilgrims and visitors. The mausoleum is a place of profound spiritual significance, where devotees come to pay their respects and seek the blessings of the revered monk.
The Gobyo is surrounded by a serene and beautifully landscaped garden, creating a peaceful and contemplative environment for visitors. The mausoleum itself is a modest, yet elegant structure, adorned with intricate carvings and decorations that reflect the artistic and cultural heritage of Shingon Buddhism.
Within the Gobyo, visitors can offer prayers, light incense, and leave offerings in honor of Kobo Daishi.
The mausoleum is also the site of various rituals and ceremonies, including the famous "Eternal Light" ceremony, where a flame has been burning continuously for over 1.200 years, symbolizing the enduring spiritual presence of Kobo Daishi.
As said above, visitors can reach this mausoleum, but please remember that it is forbidden to photograph it. Consequently, you won't find any photographs of this sacred hall in my articles, even though I've visited this place several times.
Torodo Hall
This hall houses thousands of lanterns, each donated by devotees in honor of their loved ones. The lanterns are kept perpetually lit, creating a mesmerizing and otherworldly atmosphere within the hall.
Miroku Stone
This large, round stone is said to weigh the virtues and sins of visitors. Legend has it that the stone will feel light to those with pure hearts and heavy to those burdened by sin.
Memorials and Monuments
Okuno-in is also filled with memorials and monuments dedicated to prominent figures from Japan. These structures offer valuable insights into the cultural and historical significance of the cemetery.
Historical Figures
Okuno-in is the final resting place for numerous prominent figures, including military leaders, artists, scholars, and nobles. Here are some examples of important historical persons buried in Okuno-in, listed by date of birth:
Takeda Shingen (1521-1573):
Takeda Shingen was a renowned daimyo and military strategist, known for his brilliance on the battlefield and his role in the conflicts of the Sengoku period. As a result, a memorial to Shingen can be found in Okuno-in, honoring his legacy and contributions to Japanese history.
Uesugi Kenshin (1530-1578):
Uesugi Kenshin was a renowned daimyo and military leader, known for his strategic brilliance and his role in the battles of the Sengoku period. A memorial to Kenshin can be found in Okuno-in, honoring his life and legacy.
Oda Nobunaga (1534-1582):
One of the most famous and influential figures in Japanese history, Oda Nobunaga was a powerful daimyo and political leader who played a crucial role in the unification of Japan during the Sengoku period. Although his remains are not physically present, a memorial to Nobunaga stands in Okuno-in, commemorating his life and achievements.
Date Masamune (1567-1636):
Date Masamune was a powerful daimyo and founder of the Sendai Domain. Known for his distinctive helmet adorned with a crescent moon, Masamune was a formidable warrior and political figure. His memorial in Okuno-in pays tribute to his life and accomplishments.
Kido Takayoshi (1833-1877):
Kido Takayoshi was a prominent statesman and political leader who played a crucial role in the Meiji Restoration, which marked the end of the Tokugawa Shogunate and the beginning of Japan's modernization. His grave in Okuno-in commemorates his contributions to Japanese history.
Fukuzawa Yukichi (1835-1901):
Fukuzawa Yukichi was a renowned educator, writer, and political theorist who played a significant role in the modernization of Japan during the Meiji era. His grave in Okuno-in serves as a testament to his enduring legacy and contributions to Japanese society.
Shibusawa Eiichi (1840-1931):
Often referred to as the "Father of Japanese capitalism", Shibusawa Eiichi was a prominent businessman, financier, and industrialist who played a pivotal role in the modernization and economic development of Japan during the Meiji era. His grave in Okuno-in serves as a testament to his enduring legacy.
Natsume Soseki (1867-1916):
Natsume Soseki was one of Japan's most famous and influential writers, known for his novels and short stories that explored the complexities of modern Japanese society. His grave in Okuno-in is a popular destination for literature enthusiasts and those who appreciate his contributions to Japanese literature.
Contemporary Figures
While Okuno-in is primarily known for its historical significance and the graves of prominent figures from Japan's past, it continues to be a revered and sought-after burial site for contemporary individuals as well. Several notable contemporary figures, including politicians, business leaders, and cultural icons, have chosen Okuno-in as their final resting place. Here are a few examples, listed by date of birth:
Matsushita Konosuke (1894-1989):
Matsushita Konosuke was the founder of Panasonic, one of Japan's largest and most influential electronics companies. Known for his business acumen and philanthropic efforts, Matsushita's grave in Okuno-in commemorates his significant impact on Japanese industry and society.
Inamori Kazuo (1932-present):
Although not yet buried, it is worth mentioning that Inamori Kazuo, the founder of Kyocera and KDDI, has expressed his desire to be laid to rest in Okuno-in. Inamori is a renowned business leader and philanthropist, known for his contributions to Japanese industry and his commitment to ethical business practices.
Hashimoto Ryutaro (1937-2006):
Hashimoto Ryutaro was a prominent Japanese politician who served as the Prime Minister of Japan from 1996 to 1998. His grave in Okuno-in serves as a testament to his contributions to Japanese politics and his enduring legacy.
Murakami Haruki (1949-present):
Murakami Haruki, the internationally acclaimed Japanese author, has expressed his admiration for Koyasan and Okuno-in. Should he choose to be buried there, it would add to the cemetery's rich literary heritage.
Kobayashi Takeshi (1959-present):
Kobayashi Takeshi is a contemporary Japanese businessman and the current CEO of MUFG Bank, one of Japan's largest financial institutions. While he is still alive, his eventual burial in Okuno-in would continue the tradition of prominent figures choosing this sacred site as their final resting place.
These prominent figures, along with countless others, have chosen Okuno-in as their final resting place, seeking spiritual proximity to Kobo Daishi and the sacred atmosphere of Koyasan. The cemetery's rich history and cultural significance make it a unique and revered site, drawing visitors from around the world who come to pay their respects and explore its tranquil beauty.
Okuno-in and Photography
Okuno-in Cemetery, like no other, unfolds as a world outside of time where centuries-old cedars tower over gravestones softened by moss and age. Each monument embodies the quiet dignity of transience, a testament to the lives and legacies that have shaped the country.
Here, the spirit of Wabi-Sabi is palpable: beauty emerges through the cracks, in the weathered stone and gentle decay that speaks to life’s impermanence. At the Kobo Daishi Mausoleum, this reverence deepens. It is not merely a place of rest but a bridge between worlds, where life and death, past and present, seem to coexist in an endless, delicate balance.
Photographing this hallowed space requires profound respect and humility. Capturing Okuno-in through the lens is to acknowledge the weight of history and the sacredness embedded within each shadow and shaft of light. A photograph here is a gesture of homage, an attempt to translate the silent beauty of this timeless place, where the essence of existence lingers like mist among the cedars.
