Japan: Danjo Garan, the Revered Temple Complex of Koyasan
Updated: Dec 1
Danjo Garan is a sprawling temple complex located on Mount Koya, the sacred mountain and headquarters of Shingon Buddhism in Japan. It consists in a collection of halls, pagodas, and other structures that together form the heart of Koyasan's religious and cultural landscape. A must-visit place for photography.
The term "Danjo Garan" translates to "Temple of the Great Practice", reflecting its profound spiritual significance. To me, it remains the most interesting place to photograph in Koyasan for its harmony, halls, stone lanterns, and ambiance, especially at night.
I remember visiting Koyasan for the first time, long before my first pilgrimage to the 88 temples of Shikoku. Although I had not yet acquired the basic knowledge to appreciate Shingon Buddhist culture, my memories remain unforgettable. And my subsequent visits over the years have only confirmed this interest.
There is something unique that permeates these spiritual places, creating an atmosphere that is both serene and profound. Nestled in a landscape of verdant hills, Koyasan stretches its history from temples to cemetery, marking our journey with majestic pagodas and centuries-old trees.
Undeniably, this sacred town is an important source of inspiration for photographers interested in Japanese Buddhist art and heritage.
However, I will not revisit the history, spirituality, and structure of Koyasan in this article. I’ve had the opportunity to discuss these important aspects in a dedicated article, which you can read here. There, you’ll also find my recommendations for the five sites of photographic interest. Of course, this is a personal list, and everyone can form their own impressions during their visit. But for now, let’s focus on the beautiful complex of Danjo Garan.
Contents:
History of Danjo Garan
The history of Danjo Garan is intricately linked to the life and teachings of Kukai (774-835), also known posthumously as Kobo Daishi, the founder of Shingon Buddhism. Kukai established the complex in the early 9th century as a place for esoteric Buddhist training and practice.
What is Shingon Buddhism?
Shingon Buddhism is a major school of Japanese Buddhism founded by the monk Kukai (mentioned above) in the early 9th century. It is an esoteric form of Buddhism, emphasizing secret teachings and rituals aimed at achieving enlightenment within this lifetime.
Key characteristics include the use of mandalas (symbolic diagrams of the Buddhist cosmos), mantras (sacred chants), and mudras (ritual hand gestures) in spiritual practices. Shingon Buddhism integrates elements of Hinduism and other religious traditions, reflecting Kukai's synthesis of various spiritual teachings.
The sect's headquarters is located at Mount Koya (Koyasan), where Kukai established a monastic complex that remains a significant pilgrimage site. Shingon Buddhism has had a profound influence on Japanese culture, art, and literature, and continues to be a vibrant spiritual tradition in Japan.
To learn more about Shingon Buddhism, its culture, philosophy, statuary, and temples, you can read my numerous articles dedicated to it here.
Over the centuries, Danjo Garan has undergone numerous periods of construction, destruction, and reconstruction, each leaving its mark on the complex's architectural and cultural heritage. Here are the 4 major periods that I would mention:
Heian Period (794-1185): During this era, Danjo Garan enjoyed significant imperial patronage. The complex grew in size and importance, becoming a major center of learning and spiritual practice. Many of the original structures were built during this time, although few have survived to the present day.
Kamakura Period (1185-1333): This period saw the rise of the samurai class and the establishment of the Kamakura Shogunate. Danjo Garan continued to flourish, with new structures added to the complex. However, it also faced challenges, including damage from fires and natural disasters.
Muromachi Period (1336-1573): During this turbulent era, Danjo Garan suffered significant damage due to wars and political instability. Many of its buildings were destroyed, but the complex was gradually rebuilt and restored.
Edo Period (1603-1868): The Edo period was a time of relative peace and stability in Japan. Under the patronage of the Tokugawa Shogunate (see below), Danjo Garan underwent extensive reconstruction and expansion. Many of the structures that stand today date back to this period.
Important Figures
Several key figures have played pivotal roles in the history and development of Danjo Garan. Here are the main ones who have had a deep influence on the evolution of the complex:
Kukai (Kobo Daishi) (774-835): Obviously, as the founder of Shingon Buddhism and the Danjo Garan complex, Kukai is the most revered figure in its history. His teachings and vision laid the foundation for the complex's spiritual and architectural significance.
Emperor Saga (786-842): Emperor Saga was a devout follower of Kukai and provided significant support for the construction and expansion of Danjo Garan. His patronage helped establish the complex as a major center of Buddhist learning and practice.
© O. Robert
Toyotomi Hideyoshi (1537-1598): The influential daimyo and political unifier of Japan, Hideyoshi was a devout follower of Kobo Daishi and provided financial support for the reconstruction of Danjo Garan following periods of destruction.
Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543-1616): The founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate, Ieyasu continued Hideyoshi's support for Danjo Garan, ensuring its preservation and expansion during the Edo period.
Characteristics and Architecture
Danjo Garan is renowned for its architectural beauty and spiritual significance. The complex is laid out in a mandala-like pattern, with each structure representing a different aspect of Shingon Buddhist teachings.
Here are some of the most spectacular and symbolic buildings that make up this unique architectural ensemble. Of course, this is a personal selection that is not exhaustive but highlights the structures most interesting for photography.
1. Kondo Hall
The Kondo Hall (photo below) is the main worship hall of Danjo Garan. This grand structure is the spiritual heart of the complex, housing important Buddhist statues and artifacts. The hall is used for major ceremonies and rituals, including the famous Fire Ceremony called "Goma", a central practice in Shingon Buddhism.
© O. Robert
2. Konpon Daito Pagoda
The Konpon Daito Pagoda (photo below) is one of the most iconic structures in Danjo Garan and certainly the most inspiring one for photographers. This red towering pagoda stands at the center of the complex, symbolizing the axis mundi, the spiritual center of the universe. This magnificent structure measures approximately 49 meters in height, making it one of the tallest buildings in the complex.
It is a masterpiece of Japanese architecture, featuring intricate carvings and ornate decorations. The pagoda is also one of the oldest structures in the complex, dating back to the 9th century, although it has been reconstructed several times due to fires and other damages.
Here's what you can find within and around the Konpon Daito Pagoda (please be aware that it is forbidden to take photographs inside the pagoda):
Central Pillar: At the heart of the pagoda is a massive central pillar which is believed to connect the heavens, the earth, and the underworld, representing the interconnectedness of all realms of existence. The central pillar is not physically supported by the building's foundation but is suspended from the top, emphasizing its spiritual significance.
Buddhist Statues: Within the pagoda, you can find several Buddhist statues and images, each holding symbolic significance. The principal image is that of the Dainichi Nyorai (Mahavairocana), the cosmic Buddha and the central deity in Shingon Buddhism. This statue is not openly displayed to the public but is housed in a sanctuary within the pagoda.
Mandalas: The pagoda's design and layout are based on the mandalas of the Two Realms: the Womb Realm, called "Taizokai", and the Diamond Realm, called "Kongokai". These mandalas are intricate, symbolic representations of the Buddhist cosmos and the path to enlightenment. Although the physical mandalas are not displayed within the pagoda, their symbolism is embodied in the structure's design.
Relics: The Konpon Daito Pagoda is said to house various sacred relics, including texts, artifacts, and religious objects related to Shingon Buddhism and Kobo Daishi. These relics are not typically on public display but are preserved within the pagoda as objects of veneration.
Surrounding Gardens: The area around the pagoda features beautifully landscaped gardens, which provide a serene and contemplative environment for visitors. These gardens are designed to complement the spiritual atmosphere of the pagoda and offer a peaceful setting for reflection and meditation.
Cultural Events: The pagoda also serves as a venue for various cultural and religious events throughout the year. These events may include ceremonies, rituals, and festivals that offer visitors a unique opportunity to experience the living traditions of Shingon Buddhism.
3. Saito Pagoda
The Saito Pagoda (photo below), also known as the West Pagoda, is another significant structure in Danjo Garan. This pagoda is dedicated to the Eleven-Faced Kannon, a manifestation of the bodhisattva of compassion. The Saito Pagoda is known for its elegant architecture and serene atmosphere.
4. Miedo Hall
The Miedo Hall is dedicated to Kobo Daishi and houses a statue of the revered monk. This hall is a place of pilgrimage for devotees, who come to pay their respects to the founder of Shingon Buddhism. The Miedo Hall is also used for various rituals and ceremonies honoring Kobo Daishi's teachings and legacy.
5. Fudo Hall
The Fudo Hall is dedicated to Fudo Myoo, one of the Five Wisdom Kings in Shingon Buddhism. Fudo Myoo is a wrathful deity who represents the transformative power of anger and passion. The hall houses a statue of Fudo Myoo, surrounded by flames, symbolizing the purifying fire of wisdom.
© O. Robert
6. Kyozo Hall
The Kyozo is a repository for the sacred scriptures and texts of Shingon Buddhism. This hall is a vital center of learning and scholarship, housing ancient manuscripts and religious artifacts. The Kyozo is also used for the copying and preservation of sacred texts, a practice known as shakyo.
Cultural Significance
The complex of Danjo Garan has played a crucial role in preserving and promoting Japanese art, literature, and cultural practices. The architectural beauty of its halls and pagodas, the intricate carvings and decorations, and the ancient manuscripts and artifacts housed within the complex are spectacular and valuable works of art.
Moreover, Danjo Garan has been a center of learning and spiritual practice for centuries. The complex has trained countless monks and scholars, who have gone on to spread the teachings of Shingon Buddhism throughout Japan and the world. The temple's role in preserving and promoting Japanese culture and spirituality has earned it a place on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2004 as part of the "Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range".
Danjo Garan and Photography
Photographing Danjo Garan is a journey through time. It offers a unique opportunity to experience the rich history, culture, and spirituality of Japan. The complex's serene atmosphere, beautiful gardens, and ornate architecture provide a peaceful and contemplative environment for photographers. Its rich paintings, halls, pagodas, and sacred spaces weaves a narrative of spiritual devotion and architectural brilliance.
Black and white photography, with its stark contrasts and timeless aesthetic, uniquely captures the essence of Danjo Garan. It perfectly reveals the pure forms and textures that have withstood the test of time. Each photograph freezes a moment, highlighting the enduring beauty and spiritual significance of these ancient structures.
Through the lens, the timelessness of Danjo Garan is not just seen but felt, inviting viewers to contemplate the profound and the eternal. In this sacred space, the past and present converge, reminding us of the enduring human quest for meaning and connection with nature.
