Japan: Matsue Castle, a National Treasure Standing the Test of Time
- Olivier
- Feb 8, 2020
- 8 min read
Updated: Jun 6
Matsue Castle, also known as "Pine Castle", is located in Shimane Prefecture, in the beautiful San-in region. It's one of the few castles in Japan whose main tower has survived wars and natural disasters since the Edo period, making it a precious testament to Japanese military architecture. An interesting relic in photography, especially at night.
History of Matsue Castle
Origins and Construction (1607-1611)
Matsue Castle (松江城, Matsue-jō) was constructed between 1607 and 1611 under the direction of Horio Yoshiharu, the first daimyō of the Matsue Domain. Yoshiharu, a veteran of the Sengoku Period, had initially served Toyotomi Hideyoshi and later allied with Tokugawa Ieyasu after Hideyoshi’s death.
As a reward for his loyalty and military contributions, particularly his role in the Battle of Sekigahara (1600), Ieyasu granted Yoshiharu the Izumo and Oki provinces, with a Kokudaka (rice stipend) of 240.000 koku.
Yoshiharu chose to build a new castle in Matsue, closer to the coast and more strategically located than the mountainous Gassantoda Castle (月山富田城), which had been the Horio clan’s previous stronghold. The construction of Matsue Castle marked the establishment of the Matsue Domain and its Jōkamachi (castle town).
Yoshiharu’s son, Horio Tadauji, died prematurely in 1604 at the age of 26, leaving his young son, Horio Tadaharu (then only 9 years old), as heir. Yoshiharu acted as regent until his death in 1611, at which point Tadaharu assumed full control. Tadaharu completed the castle’s construction and later participated in the Siege of Osaka (1614-1615) on behalf of the Tokugawa. However, the Horio lineage ended with Tadaharu’s death in 1633, as he left no heir.
© O. Robert
A Blend of Azuchi-Momoyama and Edo Periods
Matsue Castle’s design reflects the transition between the Azuchi-Momoyama Period (1573-1603) and Edo Period (1603-1868). Its main keep (Tenshu) is a six-story wooden structure (appearing as five stories from the outside) with a watchtower-style design, characteristic of the Momoyama style.
The castle’s black-painted walls and stone foundations were built for both defense and aesthetic grandeur, embodying the shift from purely military fortresses to symbols of power and prestige. The keep is 30 meters tall, making it the third tallest among Japan’s surviving original castles, and the second largest in terms of floor area.
The castle’s layout includes imposing stone walls, a complex system of baileys (Maru), and a moat, all designed to withstand sieges. It is also notable for its "floating stones" (Ukiyama), a construction technique where the stones are not completely fixed to each other, allowing the structure to withstand earthquakes. Unlike many other castles, Matsue Castle’s keep was never destroyed by fire, earthquake, or war, a testament to its robust construction.
From Horio to Kyōgoku to Matsudaira
The Kyōgoku Clan (1633-1637)
After the extinction of the Horio line, the Kyōgoku clan, a Tozama (outsider) family with ties to both the Toyotomi and Tokugawa, was granted control of Matsue Domain in 1633. Kyōgoku Tadataka, a prominent daimyō and son-in-law of Shōgun Tokugawa Hidetada, became the new lord.
Tadataka was known for his military prowess, particularly his role in the Siege of Osaka (1615), where he commanded 2.000 troops for the Tokugawa. However, his rule was short-lived. He died in 1637 without a direct heir, leading to the domain’s transfer to the Matsudaira clan.
The Matsudaira Clan (1637-1871)
In 1637, Matsudaira Naomasa, a grandson of Tokugawa Ieyasu, was transferred from Matsumoto Domain (Shinano Province) to Matsue. This marked the beginning of 234 years of Matsudaira rule over the domain, spanning 10 generations of lords.
© O. Robert
The Meiji Era and Modern Preservation (1871-Present)
Decline and Dismantling (1871-1927)
With the Meiji Restoration (1868), Japan’s feudal system collapsed, and many castles were dismantled as symbols of the old order. In 1875, most of Matsue Castle’s buildings, except for the main keep and an attached turret, were demolished due to a Meiji government decree. The keep survived thanks to public pressure from local interest groups who recognized its historical value.
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Restoration and Recognition (20th-21st Century)
The preservation of Matsue Castle entered a new era in 1927, when the Matsudaira clan donated the castle to the city of Matsue, ensuring its survival as a public heritage site and marking the beginning of its transformation into a symbol of the city’s cultural identity.
Between 1950 and 1955, the main keep and its attached turret underwent a complete renovation, meticulously restoring their original Edo-period appearance. This effort revived the castle’s historical grandeur and structural integrity, allowing visitors to experience its past splendor.
In 2001, several of the castle’s former turrets were reconstructed, further enhancing its historical authenticity and providing a more comprehensive view of its original architectural layout.
Finally, on July 9, 2015, the Tenshu (main keep) and attached turret were officially designated as a National Treasure of Japan, a prestigious recognition of their outstanding historical and architectural significance. This honor solidified Matsue Castle’s status as one of Japan’s most cherished and protected cultural landmarks.
© O. Robert
Position Among Other Castles of Japan
Matsue Castle is one of the twelve "original castles" of Japan, a term designating castles whose main towers have not been rebuilt in modern times. It is one of the rare examples of Japanese feudal castles that have retained their architectural authenticity through the centuries.
It was also designated a National Treasure of Japan in 2015, testifying to its importance and exceptional preservation over the centuries.
As a National Treasure, Matsue shares this honor with 4 other great castles: Hikone, Himeji, Matsumoto, and Inuyama. For more information on these icons of Japanese history, you can read my dedicated articles:
Main Characteristics of Matsue Castle
Matsue Castle consists of several architectural elements and defensive structures characteristic of castles from the feudal era. Here are the main components of the castle and its surroundings:
1. The main tower (Tenshu): As mentioned, it is the central and most emblematic element of the castle. It is built on several levels and has five external floors and six internal floors. Its structure is made primarily of wood. It served both as a military command post and as a symbol of power for the Daimyo.
2. The dry stone walls (Ishigaki): These walls serve as foundations for the main tower and other structures of the castle. They are designed to withstand attacks and earthquakes. The construction techniques vary according to the buildings in the domain, showing the evolution of styles over time.
3. The moats (Hori): The castle is surrounded by wide water-filled moats, which served as the first line of defense against invaders. The moats also add to the aesthetic beauty of the site.
© O. Robert
4. The gates and drawbridges (Mon and Otebashi): Several fortified gates and drawbridges provide access to the castle, each designed to maximize defense and withstand attacks. These structures were strategically placed to perfectly control entry and exit.
5. The turrets (Yagura): These secondary structures served both as guard posts and weapon depots. They were strategically placed around the castle to monitor and defend the approaches.
6. The lookout paths (Fujimi Yagura): Passages and platforms allowed guards to patrol around the castle and monitor the surroundings.
7. The gardens and Samurai residences: Finally, Matsue Castle is surrounded by several traditional gardens and samurai residences that contribute to its photogenic atmosphere while offering a glimpse into the daily and cultural life of the era.
© O. Robert
Events and Festivals
Matsue Castle can be visited throughout the year, offering different experiences depending on the season. The cherry blossom (Sakura) season provides a spectacular setting for the castle, making it particularly popular for Hanami (flower viewing). The mild spring climate is ideal for exploring the surroundings.
The autumn foliage creates a beautiful backdrop of warm colors around the castle. It's an excellent time to appreciate the beauty of the country's botanical wonders.
Moreover, certain periods are particularly interesting due to festivals or local holidays that can enrich visitors' experience. Here are some key moments:
- Horan-enya Festival (every 10 years, next in 2029): This is one of Japan's three largest boat festivals, taking place in Matsue. Although it is not held annually, it's a spectacular event not to be missed if your visit coincides.
- Suitoro Festival (September): During this festival, lanterns are placed around the castle and on the moats, creating a magical atmosphere. It's a unique opportunity to see the castle illuminated at night and capture these special atmospheres in images.
- Shimane Festival (October): This festival celebrates local culture with parades, music, and traditional dances. It's an excellent opportunity to discover local traditions.
- New Year (Shogatsu): The first days of January are marked by New Year celebrations, where you can experience traditional Japanese customs.
© O. Robert
The Final Word
Matsue Castle, with its majestic architecture that has crossed the ages, is a window into the past. It invites reflection on permanence within change. In photography, it represents more than just an architectural subject; it becomes a symbol of resilience and cultural continuity.
Through the lens, each captured image of the castle is a meditation on time, a celebration of art and history intertwined. Photographers, in immortalizing its timeless beauty, capture not just stones and wood, but the very essence of the human spirit that endures in the face of the ephemeral.
Thus, Matsue Castle reminds us that, despite the fleeting nature of our existence, what we build with passion and respect can aspire to eternity.
