Japan: Best Places and Times to Photograph the Tanchozuru Cranes (Part 3)
Updated: 4 days ago
The Japanese cranes are undoubtedly the most depicted animals in traditional Japanese painting. Any photographer traveling to Hokkaido in winter should go and observe them in the village of Tsurui. A striking and emotionally rich spectacle. Experience feedback and practical tips for getting to the best spots.
Frequently made from paper in the art of origami, Tanchozuru cranes also accompany prayers in Buddhist temples where necklaces of hundreds of paper cranes are offered by practitioners. A traditional practice called Senbazuru. They are also often depicted in art, literature, and folklore, as a symbol of longevity, fidelity and good fortune.
In a previous article, I covered all the cultural, historical, and symbolic aspects of these magnificent wading birds, which are endemic to the island of Hokkaido. To learn more about them before embarking on an unforgettable photographic journey, you can read this article here.
In a second, more practical article, I discussed the various ways to get to Kushiro, the ideal starting point for visiting the different observation spots for Tancho cranes. You can read that article here.
I will not revisit these aspects and will instead focus more on the famous spots in the Tsurui region, which are must-visits and will allow you to capture your most beautiful shots. Below are my practical tips, drawn from my various experiences in Hokkaido.
Where to Observe and Photograph Tanchozuru Cranes in Hokkaido
The observation spots below offer a wealth of opportunities for seeing and photographing the Japanese cranes. Each location provides a unique perspective and experience, allowing you to capture the beauty and grace of these magnificent birds in their natural habitat. Whether you are a seasoned photographer or a nature enthusiast, these spots are sure to provide unforgettable moments and stunning images.
There are certainly other less-known spots that, if you are lucky, will allow you to capture some unique shots. However, as I aim to provide my readers with reliable information about places that will offer them full satisfaction, I will stick to the non-exhaustive list below.
Observation Spot n°1: In Kushiro City
Upon your arrival in Kushiro, you may wish to familiarize yourself with these majestic birds before heading to Tsurui. You will find 2 sites dedicated to cranes in Kushiro. The "Akan International Tsuru Center" and the "Kushiro City Tanchozuru Nature Park".
These centers are dedicated to the conservation and study of the Japanese crane. It offers educational programs, viewing platforms, and guided tours. The centers have been instrumental in raising awareness about the cranes and their conservation needs. It hosts various events and exhibitions throughout the year.
The viewing platforms provide elevated views, making it easier to capture the cranes against the backdrop of the wetlands. Although these locations do not allow you to photograph the cranes in their natural habitat, you can observe the birds frolicking in a large field. You'll also find some useful information and a restaurant there. With a bit of luck and if the weather is on your side, you could capture some interesting shots.
Observation Spot n°2: Tsuru Midai
Upon approaching Tsurui Village, you will find on your right a designated area for welcoming cranes in transit to other sites, called Tsuru Midai. This site is very popular among tourists, and it is common to see buses arriving, making observation difficult and photography nearly impossible.
Additionally, the presence of cranes at this location is a matter of luck. Not being fed at a fixed time like in Tsurui Ito Sanctuary (see below), the cranes much prefer to head directly to the observatory.
Lastly, you'll also notice that the surrounding landscape and background are not conducive to capturing great images. It's better to stop here to familiarize yourself with these birds in their environment. But don't expect to get your best shots at this location.
Observation Spot n°3: Otowa Bridge
If you plan to spend a few days photographing Japanese cranes, I also recommend making a stop at Otowa Bridge over the Setsuri River, ideally arriving early in the morning. This bridge is easily recognizable from a distance by its red-painted structures.
The cranes generally spend the night in Setsuri River not far from the bridge (photo above), for evident safety reasons, as foxes, which are abundant in the region, hunt the cranes and their young at night. In the morning, the Tanchozuru leave the river to go to the Tsurui sanctuary where they are fed at a fixed time. Therefore, you'll have to choose between observing the cranes in the river or their arrival at the Tsurui sanctuary.
Be cautious, however, as you'll need to arrive (very) early at the Otowa Bridge. Photographers gather in large numbers in an area that is not very wide and set up their large wildlife-photographer tripods, making it difficult to easily approach the barrier.
The frosty landscape in the early morning is absolutely beautiful, even if the cranes have already departed. Be aware, it is common for the thermometer to drop to -20°C at this location. Plan accordingly and, if you can, use weather-sealed photography gear.
Observation Spot n°4: Kushiro Shitsugen National Park
The park was established in 1987 to protect the unique ecosystem of the Kushiro Wetlands. The park covers an area of 27 hectares, making it one of the largest national parks in the country. This vast wetland area is home to a diverse range of wildlife, including the Japanese crane. Winter is the best time to see the cranes, but the park is beautiful year-round.
Several observation points and boardwalks are strategically placed throughout the park, allowing visitors to explore the wetlands without disturbing the delicate ecosystem. Here are the main ones:
Hosooka Observatory: Offers panoramic views of the wetlands and is an excellent spot for birdwatching.
Kushiro Marsh Observatory: Provides a closer look at the marshlands and the wildlife that inhabits them.
Onnenai Visitor Center: Offers educational exhibits and guided tours, providing insights into the park’s ecology and conservation efforts.
Kushiro Shitsugen National Park is Japan's largest wetland and Ramsar site. You can explore the various trails to find different vantage points. The park's diverse landscapes offer a variety of backdrops for your photographs.
The park features several well-maintained hiking trails that cater to different fitness levels. These trails offer opportunities to explore the diverse landscapes and observe wildlife up close. Here are my favorite ones:
Onnenai Trail: A 3 km (1.9 mile) loop that takes visitors through the heart of the wetlands.
Hosooka Trail: A longer trail that offers stunning views of the marshlands and the surrounding mountains.
Observation Spot n°5: Tsurui Ito Sanctuary
This 220-hectare sanctuary is one of the most famous spots for observing the Japanese cranes. It provides a safe haven for the birds, with feeding stations where corn is provided daily from December to March.
This sanctuary is undoubtedly the most popular observation location, and for good reason. It was designed in 1987 by Mr. Yoshitaka Ito (1919-2000). During that not-so-distant time, the crane population in Hokkaido could be counted on one hand. For several years, only 10 cranes were identified, which led to concerns about the imminent extinction of the species.
Fortunately, thanks to the dedicated efforts of Mr. Ito, the crane population increased from about a dozen individuals to over 1.000 within a few years. Today, the crane population is stable and hovers around 1.000 birds, much to everyone's delight.
The Tsuru Ito observatory is open 24/7 and offers multiple free parking lots. Admission is, of course, free. Given the number of parking spaces, you quickly understand that this location is very popular among tourists and photographers.
The observatory also features a Nature Center that is open from October 1 to March 31, 9:00 AM to 4:30 PM, every year. The Center is open on public holidays and closed on Tuesdays and Wednesdays. Admission is free. Many volunteers, students, or scientists lend a hand at the Center, and it's not uncommon to encounter foreigners. You can easily converse with them and learn more about the cranes if you wish.
Best Times to Photograph Tanchozuru Cranes
At the Tsuru Ito Sanctuary, the cranes are fed every day starting at 9:00 AM. During winter, they cannot fend for themselves around the village of Tsurui. Therefore, the Center feeds them dry corn (300 grams per crane per day) twice daily, around 9:00 AM and 2:00 PM. The rest of the year, they fend for themselves in the surrounding wilderness. Hence, it is pointless to hope to observe or photograph them during other seasons than winter, unless you are extraordinarily lucky.
Courtship Dance
The courtship display (photo above) is a surprising spectacle to witness. However, it only occurs a few days each year. So, if you've missed this period of courtship displays, don't worry! When the cranes are fed, they dance and call out in a very similar manner. This promises spectacular photos, as the poses adopted by the birds at this time are striking.
Arrival of the Cranes
In the morning, the cranes arrive at the Tsuru Ito Sanctuary in small groups or alone. Their majestic flight just a few meters above the ground creates an unforgettable spectacle that you won't want to miss (photo below). Their landing is just as spectacular, considering their large wingspan.
Generally, I have observed the arrival of the cranes around 8:00 AM. This is, in fact, one of the best moments to experience, and it's crucial to be on-site so as not to miss this arrival. This spectacular show last about 15 minutes. Be ready, camera in hand and not on the tripod.
If you're a landscape photographer, this is the time to try your hand at wildlife photography. Don't miss this special moment of the cranes' morning arrival. You won't get a second chance to see them flying over you unless you return the following morning.
At night, the cranes leave the Tsurui Sanctuary around 5:00 PM to return to the river. This is another magical moment not to be missed. Generally, they take off from the opposite side from where they arrived in the morning. Given their considerable weight and despite their wingspan, the Tanchozuru cranes require a significant distance to gain momentum for flight.
Be ready once again, but this time prepare your zoom lens. The cranes take off at a distance far from the observatory, and this moment doesn't last long.
Practical Tips
It is advised to be patient. The Tsurui Sanctuary and observatory are among the most visited places in Japan. Therefore, I recommend arriving at the parking area as early as possible to secure a spot. Once there, you will then have to wait for a long time either in your car or outside for the more resilient ones.
Near the intersection of the main road, before making a right turn, you'll notice a Seven-Eleven, one of those small stores that Japanese love, often referred to as "Kombini" (short for Convenience Store). You can warm up there with a hot drink after spending several hours motionless in the cold, or buy some food.
Upon arriving at the parking area, don't forget to set up your tripod near the wooden barrier, which serves as the line not to cross. Choose your spot and place your tripod there. This is a custom among professional photographers at this location. Don't worry, it won't be moved. Let's not forget we are in a country where respect for others is paramount. So, there's no risk of your precious tripod being stolen despite the gradually growing crowd.
Depending on the time of year you visit Tsurui, expect to be surrounded from morning till night by a throng of enthusiastic photographers. This situation can initially be a bit disconcerting when trying to find inspiration, especially if you're accustomed to shooting alone and in silence, as a landscape photographer. Use this experience to practice any Japanese phrases you've learned with your neighbors.
If you're a landscape photographer used to wide-angle lenses and smaller setups, you'll likely be impressed by the bulky and expensive gear that wildlife photographers proudly sport. It can be quite a shift, but also an opportunity to gain insights into different types of photography and equipment.
The Final Word
As I reflect on my journey to observe and photograph the Tanchozuru in Hokkaido, I am struck by the profound emotions and philosophical insights that this experience evokes. These magnificent birds, with their elegant forms and graceful movements, are more than just subjects for my black and white photography. They are symbols of resilience, harmony, and the enduring beauty of nature.
The first article delved into the symbolism, cultural significance, and historical context of the Tanchozuru, as well as the dedicated efforts to protect them. These cranes, revered in Japanese culture for their fidelity and longevity, embody the delicate balance between nature and humanity. Their protection is not just about preserving a species, but about honoring a deep cultural heritage and ensuring that future generations can experience the same awe and inspiration that these birds provide.
The second article guided us through the practicalities of reaching Kushiro from Sapporo and finding the perfect accommodation. This journey is not merely about logistics but also about immersing oneself in the landscapes and communities that coexist with the cranes. Each step brings us closer to the heart of Hokkaido, where the beauty of nature and the warmth of human hospitality intertwine.
Finally, this third article highlighted the main observation spots and shared valuable tips for photographers. Standing on the emblematic bridges at dawn, watching the cranes in the misty waters of the Kushiro River, is an experience that transcends the mere act of photography. The stark contrast of black and white photography captures not just the physical beauty of the cranes, but the essence of their spirit.
In observing the Tanchozuru, we are reminded of the importance of preserving the natural world and the cultural traditions that celebrate it. The cranes, with their grace and resilience, teach us about the beauty of harmony and the value of coexistence.
As photographers, we have the privilege of capturing these moments and sharing them with the world, inspiring others to appreciate and protect the wonders of nature. Consequently, this journey to observe the Tanchozuru is not just about capturing images but it is about capturing the essence of life itself.
Thank you for reading these 3 articles. I hope they have provided you with some useful information if you are planning to discover these iconic Japanese cranes for yourself. If not, I hope they have conveyed some emotions through the photographs.
Continue reading: