Japan: Chikubu Island, Nature and Spirituality on Lake Biwa
- Olivier
- Jun 30, 2015
- 6 min read
Updated: Apr 25
Chikubu Island is one of the three major islands of Lake Biwa. It is a national heritage treasure. Through its temple and shrine, it is a must-visit destination for those interested in Japanese spirituality and culture. And the uniqueness of the place gives it a preserved sense of mystery.
For photographers in particular, it is also an ideal place to capture the serenity and cultural richness of Japan. Here are some details about its characteristics, temple, shrine, and cultural significance.
Characteristics
Chikubu is a small island, measuring about 2 kilometers in circumference. It is renowned for its natural beauty, with dense vegetation and a peaceful setting. It is primarily home to places of worship and sacred sites in both Shintoism and Buddhism. However, unlike Okishima Island, the second important island on Lake Biwa, Chikubu is not inhabited.
© O. Robert
Temples and Shrines
1. Hogonji Temple
Hogonji was founded in the 8th century, although some sources suggest it could be older. It was created by the priest Gyoki, following an imperial edict from Emperor Shomu. The edict was issued after the emperor received a divine message from Amaterasu, the Sun Goddess, indicating that Benzaiten, the goddess of wealth, music, and eloquence, had descended to Chikubu Island.
In 1603, during the Keicho Era, the Kannon Hall was relocated to Hogonji from Kyoto by Toyotomi Hideyori, fulfilling the wishes of his father, Toyotomi Hideyoshi. The temple’s Karamon gate, a national treasure, was originally part of Osaka Castle and was moved to the island during this period.
The temple is part of the Shingon sect of Buddhism and is recognized as one of the three great Benzaiten temples in Japan, alongside Daiganji and Itsukushima. Benzaiten is a Buddhist deity who is an incarnation of Saraswati, the Hindu goddess of wisdom and the arts. Benzaiten is one of the Seven Gods of Fortune in Japanese belief and is often associated with music, literature, and fortune. It is also the 30th site on the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage route (read my article about Shingon Buddhism).
© O. Robert
The temple complex includes several historic buildings and artworks, including statues and paintings. The architecture of the complex features typical elements of the Heian era and later periods of Japanese history.
Hogonji is a popular pilgrimage site. It plays an important role in various local ceremonies and festivals. Its position on Chikubu Island, in the middle of Lake Biwa, Japan's largest freshwater lake, adds to its mystical ambiance and natural beauty.
© O. Robert
2. Tsukubusuma Shrine
Tsukubusuma Shrine, also known as "Chikubushima Shrine", is believed to have been founded in 420 AD, making it one of the oldest shrines in Japan. The shrine is associated with a legend involving a dragon that lived in Lake Biwa and was pacified by the establishment of the shrine on the island. The shrine’s main building is classified as a National Treasure and is said to be the remains of Fushimi Castle in Kyoto, featuring Momoyama art in its sliding doors, pillars, and transoms.
The shrine worships several deities, including Ichikishimahime (Benzaiten), Uga Fukujin, the Chikubushima Dragon, and Asaihime, the local god governing Lake Biwa’s waters. The shrine’s history is deeply intertwined with the spiritual and cultural heritage of the region.
Characteristics
Tsukubusuma Shrine is dedicated to several Shinto deities, particularly those associated with the protection of sailors and fishermen, reflecting the importance of Lake Biwa to local communities. The shrine’s architecture is simple yet elegant, featuring traditional wooden buildings and Shinto gates (Torii). The shrine is also known for its panoramic views of Lake Biwa and its role in local legends and Noh plays.
As often in Shinto shrines, Tsukubusuma features simple yet elegant architecture, with wooden buildings and traditional Shinto gates, the Torii (read my article on the symbolism and spirituality of Torii). The natural environment around the shrine, with the lake and the dense vegetation of the island, adds to its peaceful and sacred atmosphere.
© O. Robert
Tsukubusuma is an important part of the cultural heritage of the Lake Biwa region. Chikubu Island itself is often associated with legends and stories from Japanese folklore, and the shrine plays a role in these narratives.
Both Hogonji Temple and Tsukubusuma Shrine are central to the spiritual and cultural identity of Chikubu Island, attracting visitors for their historical significance, architectural beauty, and serene natural surroundings. The island itself is recognized as a National Place of Scenic Beauty and a Historic Site.
© O. Robert
Cultural and Spiritual Importance
Chikubu Island hosts several annual festivals and events that reflect the richness of its cultural and religious tradition. These events attract both locals and visitors from across the country, offering an immersive experience in Japanese practices and celebrations.
Visitors and pilgrims are also invited to contribute to the costly upkeep of the temple by purchasing, for example, wooden plaques used to cover the traditional roofs of the temples. They are called "kokera-buki" (木札葺 or 杮葺) or sometimes "hiwada-buki" (檜皮葺). This system requires ongoing maintenance and regular replacement of these wooden shingles made from cypress bark (photo below).
© O. Robert
Here are the main festivals and events on Chikubu Island:
1. Benzaiten Festival (Benzaiten-sai)
This festival celebrates Benzaiten, the goddess of music, wisdom, and fortune, worshipped at Hogonji Temple. It usually takes place in May and attracts devotees who come to pray for good fortune and success.
2. New Year Festival (Oshogatsu)
As in many other shrines and temples in Japan, the New Year is celebrated with special ceremonies and prayers. It's a time when people visit the temple to pray for a good year ahead.
3. Autumn Festival (Aki Matsuri)
Held in the autumn, this festival is marked by traditional rituals and celebrations that reflect gratitude for the harvests and blessings of the year.
4. Setsubun Festival
Celebrated in early February, this festival marks the beginning of spring according to the lunar calendar. It is often associated with purification rituals and the driving away of evil spirits.
5. Buddhist and Shinto Ceremonies and Rituals
Throughout the year, various ceremonies and rituals are held in the temple and shrine, reflecting the Buddhist and Shinto liturgical calendar.
Participating in these festivals offers a unique opportunity to immerse oneself in Japanese culture and traditions, cradled by an exceptional natural setting.
How to reach Chikubu Island
To reach Chikubu Island in Lake Biwa, visitors can use ferry services from two locations:
1. From Nagahama: Nagahama is a city located on the northeast shore of Lake Biwa. Boats regularly depart from Nagahama to Chikubu Island. This is a convenient option for those coming from the northern region of the lake.
2. From Imazu: Imazu, located on the northwest coast of Lake Biwa, also offers ferry services to Chikubu Island. These trips are often preferred by visitors coming from the Kansai region, including Kyoto and Osaka.
Join us for a Photo Tour where you’ll discover the lake's timeless beauty, immerse yourself in local culture, and uncover hidden photographic gems. We explore Japan’s contrasts, tradition and modernity, serenity and energy, nature and urban pulse… If these dualities inspire you, see the programme here.
The journey to the island is quite long. Depending on whether you depart from Imazu or Nagahama, you are only allowed to stay on the island for 80 or 90 minutes. The ferry round-trip fare is very expensive (about ¥3,600 per person), plus the temple entrance fee (¥600) once on the island, which is mandatory. The boat ride takes 40 minutes.
4. Access by Train: For those traveling by train, reaching one of these cities (Nagahama, Imazu) is facilitated by the JR Biwako Line, which serves many locations around Lake Biwa. Once you arrive in one of these cities, it is quite easy to get to the ports to take a boat to Chikubu Island.
Naturally, I recommend checking the ferry service schedules and availability. They frequently vary depending on the season and weather conditions. In addition, some connections offer additional tourist services, such as guided tours or cruises around the lake.
