China: Huangshan, from Peaks to Cobblestones, a City of Multiple Riches
Updated: Nov 14
Huangshan, located in Anhui province, is a city of immense historical and cultural wealth. Dating back to the Qin Dynasty, it was an important trading center during the Ming and Qing eras. Today, it is primarily famous for its eponymous mountains.
Huangshan City Bridge © O. Robert
However, the city is also rich in traditional architecture, particularly the Huizhou style, and in cultural heritage, with historical figures such as Huang Binhong and Tao Xingzhi.
A Harmonious Fusion of Nature, History, and Culture
Huangshan, located in Anhui province of China, has a rich history dating back to the Qin Dynasty period, around 221-206 BC. The city was previously known as Huizhou and gained prominence primarily due to its flourishing trade in fields such as tea, medicine, and crafts during the Ming (1368-1644) and Qing (1644-1911) dynasties (see below).
However, what truly put Huangshan on the global map is its exceptional topography and majestic mountains, the Huangshan Mountains. These mountains were inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1990 and are a natural masterpiece with their granite peaks, often shrouded in mist.
The mist-wrapped rock formations and pine forests offer an ideal playground for capturing minimalist and timeless images. Viewing points like the Lotus Peak and the Flying Rock are must-visit spots for any photographer (read my articles on Huangshan Mountains for more information).
Architecturally, the region is famous for its houses with black tile roofs and white walls, representing the distinct Huizhou style. The old town of Hongcun (see below) is an exceptional example of this architecture. Tunxi Laojie Street is another major attraction, known for its ancient buildings and numerous shops selling local craft items such as calligraphy brushes and Maojian tea.
Huangshan is also an important center of Huizhou culture, which is well-known for its achievements in the fields of literature, art, and crafts. The Huizhou Museum is a must-visit for those interested in the history and culture of the region.
The Huizhou Culture
Huizhou culture (徽州文化), rooted in the historical Huizhou region (now Anhui Province, around Huangshan City), is a distinct and influential Chinese cultural tradition. Emerging during the Song Dynasty (960–1279) and flourishing through the Ming (1368–1644) and Qing (1644–1912) dynasties, Huizhou culture encompasses unique developments in architecture, art, philosophy, commerce, and language. It has influenced other regions of China and remains a recognized cultural heritage today.
Characteristics of Huizhou Culture
1. Architecture:
Huizhou architecture is known for its elegant, white-washed walls, black-tiled roofs, horse-head walls, and intricate woodwork. Homes, ancestral halls, and temples often feature elaborate wood and stone carvings, reflecting the wealth of Huizhou merchants who funded these structures. Houses are typically designed to align harmoniously with nature, built around courtyards to maintain privacy and manage light and ventilation.
Famous villages like Hongcun and Xidi, now UNESCO World Heritage Sites, preserve this architectural style, making them valuable for studying ancient Chinese domestic life. Read my article about Hongcun village here.
Hongcun Village © O. Robert
2. Huizhou Merchants:
From the Song through the Qing dynasties, Huizhou was known for its influential merchant class. These merchants traded widely across China, dealing in tea, salt, paper, and other commodities. Their wealth and success were instrumental in shaping Huizhou society, as they often invested their fortunes in local architecture, education, and the arts.
3. Huizhou Cuisine:
Huizhou cuisine, part of the larger Anhui cuisine tradition, is renowned for its fresh, seasonal ingredients and bold flavors. Dishes like bamboo shoots, smoked ham, and river fish are staples, and techniques like braising and stewing are popular.
4. Huizhou Philosophy and Confucian Education:
Huizhou has been a center of Neo-Confucian thought, with scholars like Zhu Xi (1130–1200) significantly influencing local ideology. The region’s private Confucian academies, such as the Chengshi Academy, were highly regarded and attracted scholars from across China.
5. Huizhou Art and Craftsmanship:
Huizhou was a renowned center for ink production, known as Hui ink, essential for traditional Chinese calligraphy and painting. It is considered one of the Four Treasures of the Study (ink, inkstone, brush, and paper). In addition, intricate woodcarvings, often seen in architectural details, and lacquerware were other distinctive Huizhou crafts.
6. Huizhou Language:
The Huizhou dialect is a unique branch of Chinese language within the Wu and Gan language groups. It is distinct from Mandarin and difficult for outsiders to understand, which helps to maintain a strong local cultural identity. Huizhou poets and scholars contributed to Chinese literature, with local poems often celebrating the region’s famous Huangshan mountains.
Huangshan City at Night © O. Robert
Among the famous figures who have been linked to the history of Huangshan are Huang Binhong, a great Chinese landscape painter, and Tao Xingzhi, a renowned educator and reformer. Their work reflects the profound influence of Huangshan's culture and landscape on arts and letters in China.
Huang Binhong, From Landscape Painting to Spirituality
Huang Binhong (1865-1955) is a renowned Chinese painter, mainly known for his landscape works in the tradition of Chinese ink painting. He was born in Jinhua, Zhejiang province, and belongs to the generation of painters who lived at the intersection of the Qing Dynasty and the Republic of China periods. Huang was also a scholar and art theorist, and he made significant contributions to the theorization of Chinese painting.
His style combines traditional techniques with his own innovations, including the integration of freer forms and the use of dense and complex brushstrokes. He was also influenced by the styles of the Yuan and Ming dynasties, and his works demonstrate a deep understanding of the historical legacy of Chinese painting.
Huang Binhong played a crucial role in shaping young artists and promoting traditional Chinese art during a period of radical changes in China. Among his students were Li Keran and Lin Fengmian, who themselves became important figures in Chinese art.
My library: How to Read Chinese Paintings | Spanning a thousand years of Chinese art, these landscapes, flowers, birds, figures, religious subjects, and calligraphies illuminate the main goal of every Chinese artist: to capture not only the outer appearance of a subject but also its inner essence. The Chinese often use the expression du hua, “to read a painting,” in connection with their study and appreciation of such works. This book closely “reads” thirty-six masterpieces of Chinese painting from the collection of The Metropolitan Museum of Art in order to reveal the major characteristics and themes of this rich pictorial tradition.
Huang Binhong was strongly influenced by the Huangshan Mountains, and they hold a significant place in his work. He visited Huangshan multiple times throughout his life and was deeply inspired by its majestic landscapes. The depiction of the rock formations and weather variations in the region influenced his use of brushstrokes and shading techniques in his paintings.
But his attachment to Huangshan was not limited to mere representation of landscapes. He also sought a deeper meaning and a spiritual connection. Mountains are often considered in Chinese culture as places for spiritual retreat and the quest for inner balance, and it appears that Huang Binhong found in Huangshan a source of both artistic inspiration and serenity.
Brush Shop for Painters and Calligraphers in Huangshan © O. Robert
Tao Xingzhi, Educational Reform and the "New Village"
Tao Xingzhi (1891–1946) was an influential Chinese educator and reformer, widely recognized for his major contributions to the modernization of education in China. He was born in Anhui province and studied in the United States at Columbia University, where he was strongly influenced by John Dewey, the American philosopher and educator.
After returning to China, Tao dedicated his life to education reform. He advocated for an education focused on the student and on practical living, rather than solely on academic learning. He was a proponent of rural education and set up experimental schools in rural areas to educate the children of peasants.
One of his most notable projects was the "New Village" initiative, a social and educational experiment aimed at improving life in rural areas through education and community development.
Tao Xingzhi also played a significant role in the movement for educational reform during China's Republican era. He founded several educational organizations, including the Association for Educational Life, and was an active member of various government commissions dedicated to education.
Tao Xingzhi passed away in 1946, but his impact on Chinese education endures. He is often cited as one of the most important figures in 20th-century educational reform in China. Several schools and institutes bear his name in recognition of his contributions.
I also recommend reading these 5 articles dedicated to the Huangshan mountains:
The Final Word
The city of Huangshan is not only famous worldwide for its unique mountain range. It is also known for its ancient villages, like Hongcun and Xidi, which are remarkable examples of traditional local architecture. A worthy representative of Chinese traditions, the region is rich in local craftsmanship, including wood carving and tea making, like the famous Maofeng tea.
Legendary figures and artists who have lived there have contributed in their own way to the cultural development of the city. This heritage now shines throughout China and on the international stage.
Huangshan and its surroundings offer an endless wealth of subjects to capture for any photographer, from natural wonders to architectural and cultural treasures. It is a place where history and nature coexist in complete harmony.
